Week 2 has mostly been about logistics – how to I get somewhere, by what mode of transportation and how do I get back. Just a bit of background. The Amalfi Coast towns are serviced by the SITA bus service and various ferry services – no trains. I can take a train from Cava to Vietri Sul Mare or Salerno, my ‘entrances’ to the coast. The SITA buses can be ram-jammed, with the bus sometimes passing right by and possibly not stopping if it is full. The ferries are great, just a bit more expensive by about 60-70% above a bus ticket. They also run quite frequently.
After a short train ride from Cava, I took the bus to Amalfi town on the SS163 Italian State Highway – a narrow, twisty, cliff-hanger coastal road (the only one!). It takes about an hour from Vietri to Amalfi and I was happy to get a seat because after a few more stops, the bus was full. What can one say, Amalfi town is stunning! Turquoise waters, mountains, beaches and beautiful architecture. A playground for the rich I would imagine. For tourists, it is one of the ‘hot spots’ along the coast so there are tons of people, like me, taking it in. I thought the crowds would be fewer as it is still early in the prime tourist season.
I do wonder how they not only get those houses built into the cliffs, but how do you even get to them? After a nice day strolling the town, I sit back and enjoy a ferry ride back to Vietri (approximately $15CDN).
I decide one day to take a walk, in Cava, to the ancient Roman Aqueduct promoted on the town’s website. It would take about an hour to walk there and I need the exercise to balance the food/wine intake. Of course, Cava is a valley so any hour long walk would likely involve a climb … true that! But on the flip side I got a real Birds Eye view of Cava town on the walk out there.
The aqueduct dates back to the 1st-2nd century AD. It is LARGE, reaching 21 meters, and is considered to be one of the most grandiose of its kind still preserved in Italy. Very neat and no one was there but me!
It is just off to the side of the road but I was nosy and decided to see how far down the ditch I could get in search of a great picture. Well, there were these thorn bushes, a bit a blood, you know ….. no biggie!
Off to the train station for a visit to Naples (or Napoli) which takes about 1hr10min. Naples historic district consists of a maze of narrow, walkable streets with few cars but tons of motorized scooters racing about. The alleys are filled with shops, cafes and restaurants galore with piazzas and churches breaking the maze up into sections. As I had a quick coffee before leaving, I treated myself to a cappuccino at this shop as it was still before noon. Why does that matter ? Well, Italians consider it a faux pas to order a coffee with milk in the afternoon, as milk drinks are harder to digest after a meal. Huh! It was yummy!
Naples is the birthplace of pizza and I had read that the famous spot to go for real, authentic Neapolitan pizza was L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele. It is an institution in Napoli, known for long lineups, short menu (6 items) and serving only Margherita and Marinara style pizza. There is actually a lineup for takeout and a separate lineup for eat in. I wanted to eat in, my wait was about 20 minutes (but well worth it).
The crust was thin and the sauces, spices and cheese were delicious. I had the half-and-half and a cold beer to wash it down. It was an enjoyable lunch as a bunch of us solo travellers were directed to a communal table and we had Canada, Germany, Argentina, India and Hong Kong represented at our table.
A planned beach day in Vietri turned out to be a bus ride to Cetara instead, as the SITA bus stop did not seem too busy for a Saturday. Let’s give it a try. The bus arrives, already full, but the driver lets me on and I was the last person allowed on. I didn’t mind standing as Cetara is one of the first towns after Vietri along the coast. But the drive is still a bit nerve-wracking on that narrow highway.
I had a great walkabout, as Cetara is a scenic fishing town specializing in anchovy products and serving up seafood dishes at the many restaurants. I’ll have to come back for a real supper soon! A grabbed the ferry back to Salerno after an unexpected but enjoyable sunny afternoon in Cetara.
Well that’s a look at some of my adventures. Feel free to leave a comment below. If you wish to contact me, my email is blaisemcneil@gmail.com. Thanks for visiting my site and I hope you’ll return soon for my next adventure…. Blaise